There and Back Again

Ofu Island

Papa: “So, do you know which is the most beautiful island in American Samoa?”

Me: “Haha, you know, I’m starting to figure it out.”

It didn’t take me very long. After snapping a couple of photos like this one, I knew that the answer was Ofu/Olosega.

Ofu and Olosega are the small islands that, along with Ta’u, make up the Manu’a Islands. While I managed to visit Ta’u over Thanksgiving, time constraints did not permit a visit to Ofu and Olosega. However, I couldn’t just let the opportunity to visit the most remote islands of the most remote American territory pass me by. Especially after this ranking, http://www.lonelyplanet.com/usa/travel-tips-and-articles/77583 (see #5).

Now, if Ta’u was difficult to get to, Ofu and Olosega are straight up pains in the butt. There is no plane that goes directly to Ofu. Even though the island has an airport with air strip (yes, singular), no one could tell me the last time it was used to transport the living (at some point in the recent past, a plane transported a body off the island for burial). Thus, the only way to get to Ofu is by boat. One may either take the 8 hour boat ride on the M.V. Sili from Tutuila or charter a ride on a fishing boat from Ta’u. With the Sili dry-docked, our only option was the fishing boat.

Our plane landed on Ta’u late Sunday morning. Since swimming and most non-essential travel is frowned upon on Ta’u on Sundays, we spent the evening catching up with the other volunteers and playing board games.  By the crack of dawn Monday morning, we were up and out the door. By 7 am, Melanie, Jacquie, Jessie, Madeline, Wes, Cat, and I were on the boat over to Ofu. Although I did not take a picture of the fishing vessel, it is probably for the best. Let’s just say I wouldn’t take it on a three hour tour.

Day 1

Eventhough Ta’u and Ofu appear rather close (I would have guessed only a few miles); it is really an optical illusion. The flatness of the open ocean makes the two islands seem closer than they truly are. The entire trip took us just around an hour and a half. Luckily, the seas were quite calm…this time around.

The Asaga Inn

Our Room

Once we landed on Ofu, we made our way to the Asaga Inn where Jacquie, Melanie and I would be staying for the next two nights (the others stayed with Karla and Megan, the volunteers that live on Olosega). The Inn is on the east side of Ofu, right before the bridge that connects Ofu to Olosega. It has six rooms in total, plus a few fales and is one of the only buildings that face the back side of the islands (great view and beach). As you can see, the rooms are quite nice and I, frankly, was super comfortable (the AC unit in the room and the fact that I got my own bed probably helped). There was also a communal kitchen which we used to prepare meals. Definitely the kind of place I was looking to stay on my vacation. But, I’m getting a little ahead of myself.

After dropping our stuff off at the inn, we slipped into our bathing suits and made our way down to Ofu Beach to meet up with Garrett, Karla and her host family. There, I got my first taste of the amazing cultural experience that this trip would become.

While Ofu has truly breath taking coral reefs and pristine beaches, my favorite part of the beach was getting to watch/help Papa (Karla and Megan’s host father) and Walter (their host brother) fish in the traditional Samoan style.

Traditional Samoan fishing basket

Walter smashing the crab shell

Jessie and Jacquie smashing the crab

As bait, they use what I can only describe as a crab-paste. I’m sure it has a Samoan name but I can’t really remember it and probably wouldn’t be able to spell or pronounce it even I did remember. Essentially, it is one person’s job to smash open the shell of the hermit crab with a rock. Once the crab has been removed from its shell, it is thrown to another person who smashes the crab itself. Mixing the crab meat with a bit of wet sand creates the perfect paste.

After rolling the paste into a ball, it is placed in the fishing basket. Now, if I heard correctly, these baskets are very rare and expensive because the art of weaving them is practically a lost art. Once loaded with the paste, the basket is placed in shallow water and partially buried in the sand. The baskets are large spheres with a long narrow opening. This makes it easy for fish to enter in search of food but difficult for them to exit. This also makes it the perfect trap.

Had to grab a few fish

Within 20-30 minutes, the baskets are removed from the water and the catch is inspected. The basket is then emptied (the portion of the process in which I partook) and the procedure is repeated until, in this case, the Coleman cooler is full.

Papa bringing in the catch

They filled the ENTIRE cooler

All-in-all, we were at the beach for 4-5 hours and, of course, I was as red as a cherry. It has been over two weeks and I am still peeling but it was worth it. Living on Tutuila, we really don’t get much direct cultural experience. It is definitely something I will not soon forget.

For further information on Samoan fishing, check out this: http://www.pifsc.noaa.gov/tech/NOAA_Tech_Memo_PIFSC_24.pdf . I highly recommend reading about why squids are caught with imitation rats. It is one of my favorite Samoan legends.

Day 2

Much of the rest of that first day in Ofu was spent recuperating from the excessive sun exposure but, the next morning, we were back on the move. This time, we were headed up to the top of Mount Tumutumu (or just Tumu depending on who you ask). 

Mt. Tumutumu is the highest point on Ofu and is one of three National Park day hikes in Manu’a. It is a pretty simple hike. It is a wide trail that is completely uphill for about an hour and a half. Right before reaching the top, you are greeted by a spectacular array of wild ginger flowers. Unfortunately, the view from the top isn’t nearly as wonderful. There is a nice clearing at the top but tall grass and trees destroy any great photo open. Luckily, the trail doesn’t actually end there. Off to the side of the peak is a 15 minute trail that leads to a small but picturesque lookout. Not only does the lookout provide a great view of the beaches below but also the perfect postcard shot of all three Manu’a islands. It was at this point that I knew I had may the right choice for Spring break.

The end of Ofu, Olosega, and Ta'u in the background

Hiked to the top of Mount Tumutumu

Day 3

Oge Beach

For our third and final full day in Ofu/Olosega, a group of us decided to check out the second National Park day hike down to Oge Beach. Located on the far side of Olosega island, this trail is a narrow continuation of the main road. Past the dump, the 45 minute trail was rather flat until the end where it wound down through a rather steep forest. Even though ribbons mark the way, this last part got a tad confusing and occasionally scary. But, once I stepped foot on yet another picturesque beach, I knew it had all been worth it.

Finished the hike to Oge Beach

Peeling breadfruit

We returned from Oge Beach around noon to find everyone that hadn’t gone on the hike working hard to prepare the umu. Mama and Papa, being the wonderful host family that they are, were going to cook us a traditional Samoan meal. Now, I have had great deal of delicious, Samoan cuisine over the past nine months but never before have I actually partaken in the preparation. It is a lot of hard work. The skin of the breadfruit has to be peeled off (with half of a tin can, no less), bananas have to be peeled, and coconuts have to be shaved among a number of other things. 

Mama heating coals for a Traditional Samoan umu

Melanie and Wes shredding coconuts

The neatest part of the preparation was definitely extracting the coconut milk. After filling a huge bucket full of shavings, Papa wrapped a few handfuls of the shavings in an empty rice bag and then proceeded to squeeze the milk out. I was amazed at how much milk is in just a few shavings. I was also quite shocked to find out the de-milked shavings were used as pig food. Those bad boys would make a pretty penny in the states.

Papa squeezing out the coconut milk

Once all the preparations were complete, the oven was constructed. To describe the exact method, I refer you to that source of great knowledge, Wikipedia, “The Samoan umu starts with a fire to heat rocks which have been tested by fire and which have not exploded. These rocks are used repeatedly but eventually are discarded and replaced when it is felt that they no longer hold enough heat. Once the rocks are hot enough they are stacked around the parcels of food which are wrapped in banana leaves or aluminum foil. Leaves are then placed over the assembly and the food is left to cook for a few hours until it is cooked.”

In the end, it was a joyous feast. However, it wouldn’t be our only for the evening. After dinner with Karla and Megan’s host family, we made our way over to Vaoto Lodge, the other hotel on island, for a dinner with the proprietors. Although none of us actually stayed at the lodge, it is definitely a great place. The central building has a huge kitchen, decent size library, TV, pool table and plenty of games. I enjoyed the Mensa Challenge Cards. They also have a garden in back so they can pretty make anything your heart desires…for a price, of course.

After spending the final night sleeping on the floor of Karla and Megan’s house (I’m not really a picky sleeper), we chartered the same fishing boat back to Ta’u.

Remembering what a calm and peaceful ride we had over to Ofu, Jacquie, Jessie, Mel and I decided to sit ourselves at the front of the boat and enjoy the waves, the wind, and the view. We never expected the view to be the tail end of a rain storm and the waves to come crashing over our heads.

At first, the choppy waters weren’t so bad. We’d get splashed and then the water would run off the sides of the boat. It was like being the guy on a water ride that DOES get SOAKED! Then the water stopped running of the sides as quickly, the waves were a bit more intense, and the captain decided it was time to grab a bucket and start bailing the boat. That was the moment things got a little serious and we decided it was best we moved ourselves away from the front of the boat…just in cases.

Worry not, we survived. About 10 minutes before docking on Ta’u, the weather cleared. I’ve only developed a slight tremor since that day. Doc says it will go away in a few years if I’m lucky. :)

Hiking out to Si'u Point on Ta'u

From Ta’u (the village now, not the island), we hitched a ride over to Fiti’uta where Jessie and Madeline live and where the airport is located. Of course, with an entire afternoon left in Manu’a and the trail head just down the road from their house, we couldn’t pass up the chance to do the last day hike out to Si’u Point.

Compared to the other two hikes, this one was a breeze. We all did it in flip flops. It is about 3 miles (one-way) and completely flat. The first part of the trail isn’t maintained by the National Parks so it was bit muddy and the grass was uncut but, once we entered into the park, it was easy hiking. The actually runs through a number of ancient Samoan sites that the National Park is trying to preserve so there are a few wells, some ancient walls, a mass grave, and the site of Saua which, according to legend, is the birthplace of the Polynesian people.

The National Park

At the end of the trail is nothing but a wall of trees. Yes, the trail just stops. Of course, if you venture a little ways through the trees you reach a beach that provides a spectacular view of the uninhabited back side of the island. It is mind boggling to think about the about of land in American Samoa that has gone practically untouched by humans.

At Si'u Point

Oh, and I almost forget to mention…the bridge that connects Ofu and Olosega…yeah, I jumped off it…twice.

Now, this was a spring break I will never forget.

 

Like a Moth to a Flame

Life here in American Samoa continues on. We are officially ¾ of the way done with the school year. This week, my students take their midterms, then it is off for spring before beginning the final stretch. In fact, as of tomorrow, I will be exactly 3 months from leaving the island; very possibly for good. The past few weeks have had their moments and some are definitely worth sharing. So, here are the highlights.

Cooking

Without many fast food places or restaurants that are open at reasonable hours (some are closed by 2pm), it is imperative that I make my own dinners. Typically I stick with the simple stuff: hot dogs, pasta, frozen pizzas, even a veggie burger now and then. I’ve never really been that into cooking. It takes up time and, here, it is nearly impossible to get all of the necessary ingredients in a timely manner. You would have to know what you wanted to make a week ahead of time and spend a number of hours travelling to various stores trying to find what you needed. It is that or stock up on essentials early on, fill up the freezer, and then improvise as necessary.  

Unfortunately, months of hot dogs and pasta can get a little bland. So, I decided to try my hand at the culinary arts. My first foray was actually quite successful: Banana Cream Pie. In American Samoa, bananas are easy to come by. Ripe bananas, not so much. Untainted by pesticides and what not, the bananas here go from being green and sour to brown and mushy in a matter of 48 hours. So, when my roommates wound up with 8 pounds of bananas, we had to get creative. Some of the bananas we froze and are now using to make berry-banana smoothies (so delicious). The others I used to make the pie. Honestly, I was pretty impressed by myself. I know banana cream pies don’t involve much effort or skill but I got fancy. I used some of my Nila wafers to make a fantastic Nila wafer crust AND I topped the pie with a stylish banana star. Check it out!

My second attempt at cooking was a little more difficult and not quite as graceful. Over Super Bowl weekend, Melanie made homemade, personal pizzas for the group (the weekend prior, I coordinated ordering delivery Pizza Hut for us…just saying, I do my part) and it didn’t seem all that tough. So, I asked her for the recipe and gave it a try.

All in all, the prep process went pretty smoothly. It was what happened after that would make even the worst chefs scoff. Apparently, before cooking a pizza, the dough needs to rise. And, apparently, dough rises slower when placed in a cold place. So, when I thought it was a good idea to put the dough in the fridge for a half hour so that it could rise without being swarmed by flies, I was really making things worse. Of course, I didn’t know that until the first bite. Because, while the crust was a beautiful light brown and the cheese was slightly burnt but smelled delicious, the inside was still nice and doughy. Of course, I still ate it. I couldn’t let perfectly good pizza go to waste but I did learn a valuable lesson for next time.

Speaking of valuable lessons, American Samoa, like any inhabited land mass, does have a McDonalds. In fact, it has two. Knowing full well that Samoans, with their “big bones”, love to eat, the McDonalds’ on this island develop some of the greatest/most ridiculous meal options imaginable. When we first got here, there was “The Buddy Meal”. Two burgers, two fries and two sodas for $10. In the states, a great deal if you’re splitting with a friend. In Samoa, your friend can buy his own. We were asked on multiple occasions if we wanted just one. Completely serious.

Excited?

            For the past few months, however, the special meal has been “The Family Box”: 2 Big Macs, 2 Quarter Pounders, a 10 Piece Nuggets, 2 Medium Fries, 2 Small Fries, and 4 Sodas all for $23. Perfect for feeding a family of 4…or, 1-2 Samoans. Well, last night, Mike and I decided it was time to challenge ourselves. Before going to the movie theatre, we bought ourselves a Family Box and split it. It was by far the greatest/worst idea I have ever had. With 3 nuggets, a small fries and soda left I thought I was going to explode. My final 20 fries were the most difficult. Every bite was a battle against my stomach. But, in the end, we beat the box. And, to be honest, despite some initial adverse effects, the rest of the night was not all that bad. After months without fast food, it seems my stomach was strong enough to take down the giant. I can officially check that off my bucket list.

Animals

Being an island, there really isn’t a huge variety of land animals in American Samoa. True, the ocean is teeming with some of the most beautiful, vibrant fish I’ve ever seen but the island itself only has a few staples that everyone knows about: bats, chickens, dogs, spiders, termites, ants, cockroaches, and geckos.  While I think that geckos are actually really cute (especially the babies), there is one animal that I had never heard of until I came to this island and goes rather unnoticed: the Casebearer moth larvae. While most of the volunteers have never even seen these guys, our house is full of them. Most of the time, they just look like diamond shaped pieces of dirt that are stuck to the wall (sometimes, that is all that they are because the larvae has left its case behind) but, occasionally, you can catch them moving around as I managed to do a week ago. Check out the video. I know it’s just a worm and most people find it pretty gross but I think that they are absolutely hilarious! It is this tiny little larvae dragging this huge shell around. Maybe I’m a little weird, but when I see them crawling around, it always brings a smile to my face.    

School

            With another quarter almost finished, things at Samoana have been bearable. Every day is a continual battle against a poor education, apathy, and a lack of ability to be a good student. Every period is a gamble. Will my students be calm, cooperative and ready to learn or will they be talkative, rude, and ready to run around? Mentally preparing myself for the unknown is extremely taxing. I cannot wait to be back in the states. Until then, I am still going to give it my all.

See anyone familiar in the left drawing?

Using supplies sent by Ms. Browne.
Thank you, so much!

            These past three weeks, I have covering the topic of Evolution. Despite what I was expecting, my students are pretty open to the idea of Evolution. It is certainly a challenge to their preconceptions but they seem to be starting to understand and accept the theory. Of course, some of them still fail to grasp the concept that humans are animals and many of them are only open to the idea of Evolution until the conversation moves to humans. We have not specifically talked about human evolution yet but whenever it is mentioned I am immediately bombarded with comments like, “That’s not real,” and, “we didn’t come from monkeys.” Typically, I just tell them that that is a topic we will cover next semester. Can’t wait!

My class of monsters

            One of my favorite activities this quarter was in our study of variations. To help them understand variations within a species I did an activity where they each had to draw their own monster but pick from specific variations. For example, their monster could either have purple spots or no spots. Once they had finished their monsters, I told them which variations were helpful, harmful, and neutral. The student with the most helpful variations won a prize. The students really got into the activity. One student even incorporated his “favorite” teacher into his drawing. Check it out.

My student on the right.

On a final note, last weekend Samoana hosted the island Wrestling Championships. Since the competition lasted the entire day, I didn’t stay around for the whole thing but I did manage to see a few of my students wrestle their first round.