They're Going to the Drop Off? What? Are You Insane?

Saturdays are the best! There is so much to do on this island and so much time on Saturday’s to do it (I’ve been told I’ll eventually get bored here but I just can’t see how. Guess I’ll have to wait and find out). Last night, as my roommates and the Leone volunteers watched the Samoana Sharks football team defeat the Leone Lions 12-7 (GO SHARKS!), we made plans for them to come to Utulei and spend the day.

            After meeting up at the Post Office to pick up our recently arrived packages and letters…

SIDE NOTE: If you want to send me a letter or package, I’d love to hear from you…yes, YOU!

                                    Daniel Feak

                                    PO Box 2596

                                    Pago Pago, AS 96799

Anyways, as I was saying before I so rudely interrupted myself, after we met up at the post office, we ran back to our house to drop off our stuff and prepare for the day.

Our first activity was hiking up to Blunt’s Point. For anyone unaware of the history of American Samoa, during WWII, Pago Pago Harbor (where my village is located) was a major stopping point for the U.S. Pacific fleet. If I’m remembering correctly, quite a few ships were in Pago Pago when Pearl Harbor was hit. After the bombing of Pearl Harbor, four gun batteries (two on each side) were placed in the mountains above the entrance to Pago Pago Harbor. Today, both sites are National Monuments that are accessible via a very quick hike.

            We actually visited Blunt’s Point during our orientation but didn’t realize that the trail continues for another mile or so until my roommate, Beth, explored the rest of it last weekend. It is a very nice hike. Not too difficult at all (Moderate according to our Day Hike guide) that took us right along the mountain ridge. Since the ridge is rather narrow and the mountain is steep on both sides, we had a great view of the surrounding area including our own village. At one point, we couldn’t have been more than a few hundred yards above our house.

Sara Cleaver climbing the steep rocks

Everyone loves a good selfy

The rest of the hiking crew waiting for me to come down

(Left to Right: Sarah Foley, Beth, Josh R, Jill)

After our long hike, we figured, what better way to cool off than go snorkeling in the harbor? Although I’ve been snorkeling in the harbor twice before, this definitely takes the cake for my top snorkel experience (Note: I have not been snorkeling very many times). For the first time since we’ve been here, we decided to swim our past the coral to where there is a huge drop off and, when I say drop off, I mean drop off. It’s not like most places where there is a gradual slop. The ground literally stops! As cool as it was, it was also quite scary. One of these days I might get up the courage to cross it.

As I was marveling at the vast darkness that was the drop-off and preparing to head back to shore, I heard Sarah Cleaver (pictured above) start to shout something that I couldn’t understand. Worried something had gone wrong; I popped my head out of the water, looked in her direction and heard her yell, “Turtle!”  I immediately stuck my head back in the water just in time to watch a sea turtle swim by us, go out over the drop-off and float slowly down. It…was…awesome!

You Never Get A Second Chance to Make A First Impression

Worry not! I did, in fact, survive the first week. Actually, I've now survived the first twos week. It's a very strange feeling to know that the first week is over because I know there wont be another one for me in American Samoa. There will be plenty of other firsts this year but not another first week.
It was my roommate, Sarah, who pointed that out to me the other day. We were sitting by the water waiting for Sa to be over when she pointed out that, because we are only here for a year, the majority of our firsts are also our lasts. (Sa is Samoan for "sacred" and it is daily time of prayer/reflection. It usually happens around 6pm and no one is allowed to be walking through any village that practices Sa. They have people who patrol the streets during Sa. We call them "Sa Police".) Anyways, once I fully wrapped my head around what she was saying I thought it was all rather bittersweet. On the one hand, I know that I will enjoy everything that I am doing to the fullest because I know that it could, very well, be my last time. On the other hand, what if I missed something? What if I didn't get the full experience and I'll never have another chance? Honestly, I'm not too worried about it because, for me, it's more sweet than bitter. I'm glad I'm only here a year because I know I'm not going to take anything for granted.

Speaking of firsts, I had a lot of very exciting firsts last weekend. For instance, last Saturday, August 18^th, some of the other volunteers and I made our first trip to Airport Beach. After a not so quick trip to the Cost-U-Less (the local Costco/BJs/Sam’s Club) for not my first time and certainly not my last, we decided to venture out for the beach. As the name suggests, Airport Beach is out by Pago Pago Airport. What it does not allude to is that it is on the complete opposite side of the airport from where the trail starts and, since the airport is out on a peninsula, the beach is only accessible by foot. Needless to say, we had to hike there. At first, the hike was rather enjoyable. We walked along the rocks, the water of the bay moved gently in the wind, and we were provided with a beautiful view of the mountains as seen below. 

It was rather picturesque until we reached the trash. As beautiful as American Samoa is, it is still an island and, therefore, there are very few good places for garbage. The island does have a landfill but, according to recent estimates, it will be full by this time next year. Thus, a lot of the garbage winds up on the side of the road or, worse, in the water. As far as I can tell, most of the garbage on the walk to Airport Beach has washed up with the tide. Of course, we knew it was going to be there. It is the one caveat that people give when they talk about going to Airport Beach. What they fail to mention is which beach it actually is.

The first “beach” we came across was comprised of small rocks in place of sand and no good place to swim. Having just walked for 20 minutes through garbage, we were pretty disappointed. Luckily, two of the other WorldTeach volunteers had hiked from the opposite direction (Note: I did not know there was an “opposite direction” because, if I had, I would have taken it…you’ll see why). They informed us that, if we kept going, we’d find some sandier beaches. So, we kept going…and going…and going.

When we finally arrived at a place that might have been “Airport Beach”, we were, again, less than impressed. Since we had arrived around low tide, there wasn’t really any good swimming water. Of course, we weren’t going to have walked for over an hour and not make the best of it. So, while two of our cohorts headed for other adventures, Sara Morgan (we have multiple Sara(h)s. Each must be addressed by their full name for clarities sake), Josh S (we have two Joshes. Each must be addressed by his last initial. Alternatively, Big Josh and Little Josh. Or, Big Tex and Little Minnesota...yes, HIMYM reference that I did not, initially, catch. Don’t hate.) and I decided to stay behind, lay in the sand, and talk about life. Once we had finished our chat, we took some pictures (see below) to remember our adventure (we didn’t really plan on coming back) and then continued on. Little did we know that our adventure had just begun.

            As we continued to walk along the giant fence that surrounds the airport, the tall grass that blocked our view of the ocean suddenly ended and opened up into a giant rock cliff with, what we could only really describe as, blowholes. The cliffs were right on the open ocean. As far as we could tell, decades of being pounded by waves had formed holes in the cliff. So, when the tide is especially rough, as they were when we were there, the water is directed up and out of the holes. They were some of the coolest things I’ve seen on this island, thus far. Now, I definitely want to go back.

            While my visit to those blowholes probably won’t be my last, I know that I’ll never be able to relive the first time we’d realized what we had stumbled upon. We had so much fun taking pictures and trying to time the picture just right so that we would get hit with the spray.  There are so many possible firsts on this island and I can’t wait to experience them all.

One of the blowholes about to spray

They were almost like sea caves without roofs

       

Welcome Back, Feak

Well, ladies and gentlemen, after a long hiatus, I'm back. Ok, not completely back because I still don't have my own computer but, thanks to the official start of school, I now have access to a computer and internet.

Yes, you heard that right, as of three hours ago, the first day of school officially ended. What a day it was!

When we got to school this morning (by "we", I mean myself and the two other WorldTeach volunteers that I am living/working with, Sarah and Beth), the place was swarming with students. Hundreds of them in their uniforms of white shirts and blue skirts (lavalavas). It was rather an intimidating sight.

Anyways, with it being the first day of school, we went to the office to see if they had our login IDs so that we could check our rosters and schedules. Because we are new, we weren't in the system until this weekend. Needless to say, it is a bit nerve racking when you're about to start teaching at a school in a different part of the world and you don't have any idea when you're teaching which courses and how many students you will have. To my pleasant surprise, I'm teaching 4 classes of Sophomore Life Science (mainstream Biology), 1 class of Freshman Physical Science (proficient General Science) and 1 class of Reading (something that every teacher teaches during 2nd period). To my surprised surprise, the rosters for my science classes only had a maximum of 6 students. YES, A MAXIMUM! In fact, my Physical Science class only had TWO students enrolled.

While some of you may be thinking, that is ridiculous and all of you teachers are thinking "what I wouldn't give for a class of 2 students!", it is highly unlikely that it will stay that way. In Samoa, the first few days of school are full of changes. Some students' schedules get changed while other students move up a level. So, as surprised as I was, I knew this wasn't going to be the norm.

At about 8:30, the first bell rang and the students filed into the gym for the opening assembly. The new principal and a few other administrators made speeches, the students received their schedules and, by 9:35, it was off to class.

My first period, two students showed up. One was 10 minutes late. Since it was the first day and there was only two of them, I gave them some paper and crayons (misspelled "Caryons" on the box) and had them make name tags while we talked informally about whatever they wanted (within reason, of course). Although it wasn't the grand, exciting, and super inspiring first class that every teacher dreams of having, I feel like it was a nice way to ease myself into my new situation.

Of course, if first period was easing myself in, second was being thrown to the lions. In all honesty, my 15 (out of 18) Freshman Reading students we're actually pretty good. They were a bit talkative but, seeing as I didn't go over any rules, I can't blame them. Besides, I much preferred them talking, even it wasn't always about the topic being discussed, than them being completely silent. Honestly, I'm very excited about this class. I've always thought about teaching English and this might be a good way to feel it out.

The rest of my science classes went, pretty much, like my first. However, I managed to have three students (YUP! Three whole students...crazy!) 4th period and only one 6th period.

All-in-all, I really can't complain. It was a great day and I'm very excited to see what tomorrow brings...more students...hopefully! Then again, I should probably be careful what I wish for.

When It Rains, It Pours

If there is one thing that you can count on in American Samoa, it is rain. At least once a day, it rains. Sometimes it is a light sprinkle, other times its a absolute down pour. Luckily, rain never lasts very long here. I'm talking about 10-15 minutes, tops! So it is actually quite enjoyable and refreshing, especially on the hot and humid days. So far, I've only gotten caught in it once. I had just bought a new phone (Yes, I officially have a phone. If you'd like the number and the international call fees, just e-mail me and I will send you the number) and I was in the middle of talking to my parents. Luckily, they understood when I hung up rather abruptly and made a dash for cover.
The real reason I mention rain, though, isn't so literally. I'm currently writing this post, almost four days after I had initially intended to, from another volunteer's computer. If you're worried...you should be.
So, even if I had wanted to write a post four days ago, any effort to post it would have been futile because the internet was completely down. Of course, I'm going to have to get used to that because it is going to happen rather often. While American Samoa is certainly developing, it is a slow and steady process. Luckily, the internet has returned! But why am I borrowing someone's computer, you ask? Well, the answer is quite simple. Two days ago, out of nowhere, I went to turn on my computer to discover that it could not find the hard drive and, no hard drive, no blog posts (or anything else, for that matter). I know that the humidity does some funny stuff to technology here but, to be honest, it is a 4 year old computer with a 2 year old hard drive. I wouldn't be surprised if it was on its way out long before I got here. Anyways, I've taken it to the only computer store on island and I'm waiting to hear their diagnosis. Hopefully they can fix it within a week. Otherwise, my computer is making the long voyage home via USPS and I wont see it again for another three weeks. I'm really hoping for the former but I recommend preparing for the worst. Even if you don't hear from me for a while, know that I am having a fantastic time here, I am learning a ton, and I will soon be purchasing my first i'e faitaga (a.k.a. formal male skirt). Yes, I will be taking pictures. :)

'Til the rain stops, fa'afetai! 

Somewhere Over the Rainbows

Last night, around 9 pm, we finally arrived in American Samoa (note: that’s 4am in Boston). However, with an entire Boeing 737-300 to unload, only four lines for Customs, one baggage carousel, and an extra baggage check before exiting, it took over an hour to get out of the airport. Despite the hassle, it was all worth it when we discovered a group of students waiting outside the airport holding a “Welcome World Teachers” banner. As worried and frustrated as I am about being away from home, seeing those kids really reminded me why I am here. It’s not about me. I mean, not completely about me. I’m here for those kids. To help them in whatever capacity I can.

                From the airport, we took two buses (One for just our luggage. Hey, we’re here for a year!) to Nu’uuli Vocational Technical High School where we will be staying for the next 3 weeks. While the accommodations at the school weren’t quite what I was expecting, they certainly could be worse. We are split up by gender (one room for the 8 boys, three rooms for the 22 girls) and everyone has their own foam mattress. The bathrooms…”work”. That’s all I will say on that. The really cool thing about the school is that it is an outdoor campus so every room is connected by an outdoor hall way. Reminds me of a motel. A really cheap motel.

Since we got in so late last night, there wasn’t really much time to explore. We met our Field Director, Veronica, washed up for bed and passed out. Unfortunately, because of the time change, I couldn’t sleep for very long. As much as I hate not getting a full nights rest, when I woke up at 6:30 this morning, the view was breathtaking. The sun hadn’t quite risen yet but there was enough light to see what I hadn’t been able to the night before. On one side of me were mountains completely covered by the canopy and partially blocked by low clouds. On the other side, was a bay with some of the bluest waves I’ve ever seen. It is really neat because the water itself isn’t much different than anywhere else but, when the waves break, the water is a beautiful turquoise. I’m not quite sure why or how this happens but I certainly plan on finding out.

After taking a wonderfully cold shower and munching on a quick bowl of Cheerios, the group hoped on a bus to Utulei. Now, I know what all of you loyal followers are thinking, “That’s where Dan is going to be living for the year!” And, YES! Yes it is! I was so excited to find out we were going here because it gave me a chance to check out the village ahead of time. I was NOT disappointed. The town is right on Pago Pago Harbor, has plenty of small shops where I’ll be able to pick up most anything I will need, and a really nice park right on the water that’s filled with fales. I am very excited to move in.

While in Utulei, not only did I get a chance to check out Samoana High School but I also met my landlord, Al. He seems extremely friendly and excited that we are there. We talked briefly about his past tenants and how he still keeps in touch with him. I really hope I manage to develop that kind of relationship with some of the people that I’m going to meet over the next year. It’d be so cool to have a Samoan friend. J

Along with the house where myself and two other volunteers will live, Al and his wife also own a local seafood and BBQ chicken restaurant. Since it might, honestly, be the cheapest place I’ve ever seen, the majority of us volunteers had lunch there. No joke, I was able to buy a can of soda, two pieces of BBQ chicken and a boiled banana covered in coconut oil for $3.05. What’s more, it was filling and absolutely delicious. If I have to live off $13/day, I know where I’m eating every day. A note on the banana, despite the fact that they taste rather bland (almost like a potato with no butter or salt), many of the Samoans piled them onto their plates.  Maybe there is something about them that I just don’t know, yet.

When we got back to the school, we had a quick overview of the next three weeks. It is going to be very busy; full of meetings and “practicums”. Oh boy! Well, it’s 8:30pm and I am super tired. Hope the following pictures sufficiently entertain…

 Our view of one of the many mountains on the island taken when I woke up at 6:30am

 Double rainbow that appeared after a quick rain shower this morning

 A traditional fale at the park in Utulei

 One of the many buses that takes you from village to village. They come in all different shapes and colors. Most play loud music. The one I road today had a TV and was playing the movie "Killers". Not my first choice of film but the little kids on the bus were loving it.

  A Samoan canoe (va'a). One of the ones in the shed to the left had a Seahawks logo on it. This one had Satan.

The City of Angels

Once Around the Sun. For those of you who don't know (which, according to a book I recently read, a lot of the world doesn't), that's one year. 365 days. If we're being literal, that isn't how long I will be in American Samoa. I'll only be gone for 11 months but “11/12ths Around the Sun” just didn't sound as catchy. Neither did “91.66% Around the Sun”.

The line actually comes from the film GATTACA (all caps just for you Genetics nerds). For those of you who aren’t familiar with the film, Ethan Hawke’s character, who is about to travel into space for a year, is talking to his love interest (Uma Thurman) when he says, “A year is a long time.” To this, she replies, “Not so long. Just once around the sun.” To be honest, I’ve never actually seen the end of the film but I absolutely love the implications of this quote. A lot can happen in a year. I’m both excited and worried about what this year will bring but, in the scheme of things, in comparison to an entire lifetime, to humanity’s existence, to the existence of the universe, one year is almost insignificant. The way I see it, whether or not this year is absolutely amazing or the most difficult thing I’ve ever done, and it could be both, it’s just one year. As much as I’m going to miss my family and friends, I’ll be back before I know it. My plan is to try and enjoy every minute of it, take nothing for granted, and take as many pictures as possible.

Enough about my feelings and nerdy obsession with movies and quotes (two things I guarantee will appear in the blog constantly), on to life away from home.

Currently, I am sitting in my hotel room at the Four Points Sheraton in Los Angeles after a rather lengthy flight on a Boeing 737-800 from Chicago Midway Airport (which, by the way, is named after the Battle of Midway and NOT the fact that it is midway through a flight to California. A mistake I made 9 years ago).  Interesting fact, the plane I was on is one of the newest planes in Southwest’s fleet. I must say, it is quite the plane. It even has that new airplane smell. I don’t actually know what new airplanes are supposed to smell like but I imagine that that was it.  

It’s a little weird to think that, only 20 hours ago, I finished packing and went to bed; only 14 hours ago, I woke up for the second time (was so excited/nervous that I woke up at 4am…whoops); and 10 hours ago, I boarded my flight from Boston to Chicago. What’s worse is that the traveling isn’t even over. Tomorrow morning at 10:40am I get on a plane to Hawaii and, 14 hours later, I’ll land in American Samoa.  It is going to be quite the trip. I only hope that I’m as ready for it as everyone seems to think I am.

Before I end this post, I just wanted to say two things. First, once I land in American Samoa, it might be awhile before I have any internet or phone service. So, please be patient. Trust me, I want to talk to you too. Secondly, thank you to everyone who helped me to get here. Whether you’re a member of my family, a friend, a teacher, or a mentor, I wouldn’t be here if it weren’t for you. I miss you all very much.